Galle is the capital of the Southern Province, 72 miles south of Colombo. Galle is famous for its old Dutch Fort, Galle lace, ebony, ivory and wood carving tortoise-shell ware and gem-polishing.

Persians and Arabs, Chinese and Malays, South Indians, Portuguese and Dutch, English and even Romans, appear to have visited Galle in the dim past. In 1344, Ibn Batuta found Moorish vessel in harbour.

The Portuguese came 1505, blown ashore on their way to the Maldives. As Friar Vincent on board interpreted it, God was guiding them to His purpose in another land.

In 1640 Galle was taken by the Dutch at such cost that a saying arose among the soldiers - "Gold in Malacca lead in Galle".

The harbour gate has over it on the inside the "Cock of Galle" and on the outside the British Lion. Portuguese and Dutch both mistook the name Galle for Latin "Gallus" a "cock". The Sinhalese Gaala long "A" implies an enclosure.

Galle's most flourishing period was under the British, but Galle Fort is also the best preserved Dutch Fort in the Island.

In 1969 the Galle Fort was declared an archaeological reserve. Hence tourists came to Galle mainly to see Dutch monuments. These are the beautiful Dutch ramparts with their solid bastions and "pepper pot" towers, the old baronial like gate way, the narrow streets and the gabled houses with their Dutch "stoeps" or verandahs, lofty ceilings and massive pillars. The Dutch Church, with its armorial bearings, held in high repute, the wood carving and Dutch furniture perhaps their happiest legacy.

The Dutch ramparts entirely surround the Fort with the exception of Zwart or Black Fort overlooking the harbour. This Fort, called Santa-Cruz by the Portuguese, was completed in 1625 according to General De Saa's Plan.

The Dutch ramparts are built mostly of grey granite rock that came to Galle as ballast ships. The ramparts were built mostly by Negro slaves who worked in chain - gangs under Dutch military Supervision. Dutch soldiers also helped out. Indeed a spell of work on the ramparts was a favourite punishments of the Dutch military courts.

The fortifications were overhauled under the administration of the Dutch Governor, Petrus Vuyst (1726-1729). It is reported that when he arrived in Galle, he clapped his hand over his eye saying he did not need more than one eye to rule a land of such small dimensions. He was a cruel governor and was recalled to Batavia (now Jakarta) where himself ended up on the gallows for the torture he meted out to others.

The three main bastions are the sun, the Moon and Star bastions facing the Esplanade or land approach to the Fort. They used to be protected by a moat pretty deep and 18ft. wide. A small draw-bridge spanned the moat by the harbour road, below the ramparts.

On the Sun-Bastion, harbour end, the main guard was stationed. The centre Moon- Bastion, the arsenal was the scene of the most fierce fighting and carnage when the Dutch stormed Galle. This, the strongest and highest bastion, had an underground tunnel or passage connecting it with the Star Bastion at the open-sea end. On the sea front it has a protective wall of the same height as the bastion.

The Star Bastion in British times was the scene of former duels. The last duel fought was on 17th November 1810, when Captain James Brown was shot dead by Captain John Parker. The case taken to Court.

A small Sally port or tunnel gate dated 1697 connects the Sun Bastion with the fausse- bray or lower breast-work. Another hidden sally- port leads up from the harbour breast-work to the Swart- Fort, present Police Station. Is this the old Water - gate?


The small 'pepper-pot' towers look outs.

The lower Akersloot Bastion by the present District Court was named after De Coster's birth-place in Holland. De Coster was the Dutch Commander who took Galle. Thereafter on his way back from a visit to the King of Kandy he was murdered. Meantime his unfortunate wife arrived in Galle from Batavia.

Later under British Occupation, "Akersloot" became the Master Attendant's Bungalow, where a Telescope and 8 Mounted Guns stood in the pretty garden commanding the Harbour. A fine Breadfruit tree growing in the garden is said to be the first of its kind planted in the Island by the Dutch who introduced the Breadfruit.

Next door, the present Kachcheri, shades of British Madrasi- Administration was a Dutch Hospital. Hence "Hospital Street".

Straight down Hospital Street on to Utrecht Bastion described as "So reminiscent of Holland". By it, there is an old Dutch gun-powder magazine recently broken into to make a home for beggars.

On Utrecht Bastion stands the new Galle lighthouse completed in1940, to replace the old iron lighthouse burnt down in 1936. The Light- House is very important for ships that pass, to fix their bearings by it. In clear weather the Dondra lighthouse is visible at the some time, so that cross-bearings may be taken and the exact position of the ship established.

The Galle lantern is 92 feet above low-water level and is visible for over 15 miles out. On dark nights the loom or rays can be seen over twice that distance.

On the opposite side stands the Meera Mosque facing the sea. It is well worth a visit. It was built in 1904 in British times. Here on Friday, the Muslim Sabbath, the faithful assemble for prayers. Muslims wash their feet in the tank outside before entering the Mosque where they sit on the clean tiled floor. There are no pews, no alter, flowers or candles nor images. The focal point is the pure white "Mirab" or alcove indicating the direction of prayer-towards Mecca. On its right is the "Nimbar" a pure whit pulpit. A portion of sanctuary is screened off for women. Prayer mats are used but all kneel or sit on the floor for all men are equal in the sight of Allah.

A pretty custom is their Mueazin's call to prayer five times a day from the Mineret outside the Mosque.

This back of the ramparts facing the sea commands an ideal view for ships that pass.

At the other end is the Rocky Bastion, called "de Visser's Hoek" Fisher's Hook, from the men who fished on the rocks below.

On this rock stood the old British lighthouse, the oldest lighthouse in the island, and perhaps in the East, built in 1848. The two oil lanterns outlasted the guaranteed 80 years, when they caught fire and burnt down the lighthouse keeper, K.N. Fernando, lost his life when he leapt from the burning lantern into the rocky sea "from frying -pan into the fire" with a vengeance.

In 1850, when the "Colombo Observer" inaugurated its "Pigeon Post" from Galle to Colombo the carrier-pigeon were released from the top of the old lighthouse carrying news brought by the mail steamers from Europe and America.

In 1855,the news of the Battle of Inkerman was carried by one of these Express Pigeons to the Observer Office in Colombo in three quarters of an hour, attaining the wonderful speed of 96 miles an hour if they followed the coast. The pigeon Post continued until the coming of the telegraph in 1858 (8 years later).

In Dutch times the rock served as a Flag- staff and Signal Station. A Dutch flagman climbed the staff to observe approaching ships. Having sighted a ship he hoisted a flag and a gun was fired to inform the Commandant and Pilot who then went out in a boat to bring the ship in. "Also when they sailed away the sound of cannon is pleasant to hear" - (Hedyt 1733).

Turning the corner the ramparts move up to Triton Bastion opposite late H. De S. Kularatne's house. A Dutch windmill stood on Triton Bastion and water drawn up from the sea was used in water-carts to water the dusty red roads before the British tarred them.

On to Neptune Bastion said to be haunted by devils! The British Flag-staff that stood on his bastion was dismantled during World War II (1939-1944) so as not to obstruct the R.A.F. Look out built on the ramparts.

The Buddhist Temple opposite was built in 1889 also on the site of an old Portuguese Church. The Church arches can still be seen. Here Buddhist devotees come to worship with flowers and lights before reciting their five Percepts at Pure-White Dagoba, especially on Poya (full moon) nights.

Finally the Eolus Bastion, also called the New Bastion with its flight of steps down to the sea, - a popular bathing place.

Further up is the grave of a Muslim Saint, called Bathri Awliya or "Battery Saint", By this tomb, a pace from the sea is fresh water well held in high esteem by Muslims. Muslims Women throw a coin in the well and ask Bathri-Awliya for the gift of a child , much to the amusement of their husbands who regard it as their prerogative.

Beautifully sited on the ramparts opposite the Eolus Bastion is the Former Judge's Bungalow, present "Germunu Wtch" Headquarters. The author had the pleasure of living there when he father T.W. Roberts was District Judge of Galle.

The house was actually built "Ship- Shape and Ship-like" under the personal supervision of Capt. Daniel Blythe, the first British Master Attendant who lived there when the Galle Harbour rose to its zenith.

The Dutch too attached high importance to the post. Dutch pilots were forbidden on oath to leave Galle after retirement lest they disclose information on the Galle Harbour to rival Nations "For we hold Galle better than any other port in Ceylon". Indeed Dutch Governors were told that their next duty after keeping the peace with the natives was to exclude other Europeans and their ships from Ceylon.

The arched doorway in the old garage is a pointer to a small Kaffir Church and a spinning house in the vicinity marked on an old map by R.L Brohier.

Two other old Dutch buildings below the Galle Clock Tower, dated 1683 and 1777 were used as the Gun Lascarin, (Sinhalese Soldiers) Barracks and Ordinance Store for many years presently occupied by the P.W.D.

The Galle Clock Tower standing on the Dutch Moon Bastion greatly enhances the beauty of the ramparts. It was built in 1881, during British times, in memory of Dr. pieter Daniel Antonisz, a Dutch Burgher descendent and an eminent surgeon and Chairman of the Galle Municipal, Council. He became the first President of the British Medical Association branch in Ceylon, fore -runner of the Ceylon Medical Association. It was erected during his lifetime by grateful patients, among them the Maha- Mudaliyar Sampsons D'Abrew Rajapakse of Kosgoda. who donated the clock itself.


The Galle Fort has only two entrances, the City Gate (British) and the Old Fort Gate (Dutch), with its armorial bearing British on the outside and the Dutch Cock symbol on the inside above the gate.

On either side of the old Gate are the two Dutch Pakhuis or ware-houses, dated 1671-1676, still very much in use. On the left, the room at the top, present Education Office, served its time as a "Court House" before the present District Court was built in 1928.

On the right, still a warehouse and the old barracks the late European Galle Club to 1950s, and the present land Registry Office, served earlier as the Dutch Church, while the present Dutch Church was being built from 1752. Note the Dutch gable similar to that of the present Dutch Church.


On the other side of Queen's Street, present by Walker Sons and Co. Ltd. includes the former Queens House the earlier Dutch Commandant's Official Headquarters. The name of the house is English, the date 1683 on the doorway surmounted by the Cock emblem is Dutch. The wide extensive verandah covers an old guardroom. During the Dutch times there use to be a wooden trellis balcony from which the Commandant could review the changing of the Guard. The tall handsome wooden ceiling. Apparently the house was enlarged and rebuilt to accommodate the British Governor and high officials who visited and resided in Galle temporally. (F. W. de Vos)

A stone dated 1775 was found recently in the garden lying on a pedestal.

Queen's House was sold in 1873 to Clark Spence and Co., by the Governor, Sir William Gregory, for 15,000 pounds, and so cast and dye against Galle as Chief Port, and with the proceeds he purchased Queens Cottage at Nuwara Eliya. When rapped over the knuckles by the Colonial Office, London, he explained it was a shrewd investment for when Galle was doomed as a port the value of Queen's House fell to about 1/3rd of the price he got for it, whereas the house and grounds at Nuwara Eliya was immediately increased in value.

The firm. Clark Spence and Co. closed down for a time during the depression in the 1930's. They sold Queen's House to the present firm Walker Sons and Co. Ltd. in 1936, though they continued for a time to occupy Walkers showrooms, and their Manager lived in the flat above. In 1944 Clark Spence and Co. shifted to "Clan-House" their present premises.

Walker Sons and Co. Ltd., who opened a branch in Galle in 1936, is the oldest engineering firm in Ceylon. Walkers engineer lives in the house adjoining Queen's House which is occupied by the Manager.

Walkers are equipped with a large machine shop under- taking every kind of repair for estate machinery, motor cars etc., take engineering and building work. The Berubeula Tea Factory at Urubokka, fully electrified, was built by walkers in 1960. The firm continues to flourish under Sri Lankan management.

Another old Dutch building by New Oriental Hotel, dated 1656, was used as a Commissariat Store for a long time. In 1977 it was renovated following a recent proposal to turn it into a Dutch Museum. Before that it belonged to the New Oriental Hotel and they used it as a Billiard Room. In 1926, when the "Galle Library" building was under repair, R.L. Ephraums the owner and manger of the Hotel, kindly allowed the library books, to be housed there.

Years before the Hotel was built 1865 two old Dutch houses stood on site. They were the Dutch Military officer's headquarters occupied by the British 83rd Regiment when they took over. Later it was converted into the Oriental Hotel run by T. Barker, who sold it to A.R. Ephraums in 1902 for a mere Rs. 40,000/- His son R.L. Ephraums took over the management. It was renamed the "New Oriental Hotel" a fine three storied building commanding a magnificent view of Galle Harbour.

Of interest are the underground vaults covering the area under the present lounge, office and Bar. Recently they uncovered in the cellar an old rock-stone with a skull and cross bones inscribed on it, without name or date. Perhaps it is tombstone or armorial bearing of some Dutch regiment.

Down Middle Street in a back room of the Hotel over the Lower Billiard Room and Bar is the old Mosonic Lodge- the Grant Lodge founded by john N. Grant in 1902. The wall carried a portrait of Robert Burns. Scottish Poet and Patron of the oriental lodge in Scotland. The room and hall were furnished with some fine Dutch ebony furniture.

A new swimming pool has been built in the old shubbery at the back of the Hotel by Mrs. N. Brohier, the present Manager. She and the Ephraums family are the owners. She is the daughter of R.L. Ephraums and her late husband, Hal Brohier and Dr. R.L. Brohier, the historian, were first cousins.

Mrs. Brohier's beautiful daughter Veronica, who died recently in tragic motor car accident in Holland, was married to a Dutch Pilot named Menkcukamp.

Nesta Brohier is a gallant lady of the old school, who carries on bravely where her ancestors have died and her family and relations have left Galle. Ahe may be last f the Dutch Burgherij holding the Fort.

A stone slab under the Dutch Belfry bears the date 1701 but the Belfry is more recent. Formerly it had a spike with a weather cock on top. When an hour-glass was used to tell the time, the bell tolled the hours. (1733-Hedyt). The last time the bell tolled was for Miss Florance Tyle who died some years ago.

The Dutch Chruch in Chruch Street is also believed to occupy the site of a Portuguese Capuchin Convent. tradition has it that the Church was built in 1775 at the private cost of Commandant Casperus de Jong's wife, as a thank offering for the birth of a daughter after many childless years. The first recorded baptism August, 1755,of Adriana Johanna is said to be this child.

A painted tablet with arms, sword and gauntlets with merely the date of death 1758 aged 50, hanging on the wall of the Church, bears a close resemblance to De Jong Coat-of-Arms as seen on their grave stones in Jaffna and Galle.

On the left wall, as you enter, is the Abraham Samlandt tablet, the most elaborate of its kind in the island. It used to occupy the center wall facing the door before the stained glass windows were put in. Commandant Samlandt was born in Colombo in 1713 and died in Galle in 1766. He had many local ties. His mother's family Emans being associated with the South. It was during his time that the peasants revolt took place and the Galle Landraad outside the Fort was burnt down in 1760. His daughter Agita Clara became the wife of Jacob Vandergraaf, Dutch Governor of Ceylon.

Samlandt's successor, Commandant Arnoldas du Lij held the post for the longest period in Galle. Till recently the letters A.D. L.I.E. inscribed on the wall of the late All Saints College present Government Central School, were said to stand for Arnoldas du Lij. When his wife, nee Maria Cornelia Schutrop, daughter of the Dissawe of Colombo, died in 1785, she was buried in the vault inside the Church, where her tombstone may be seen on the floor.

They had several daughters, but only one son, Andreas du Lij who married Dorothea Petronella Vanderspaar, who died without sons. He then made his will with the request that as the last surviving male heir of the House of Lij, his family Coat-of- Arms be carried before his corpse to the place of internment and there be broken to pieces the line now being extinct. This request was carried out to the letter.

Several white-marbled tablets of the Vanderspaar Dutch Shipping family adorn the center wall the Church. Of interest this Church floor is paved with tombstones removed from the old Groote Church yard present (Hayleys Garage) in 1853. This is why the land by the garage was never built on.

There are two vaults in the Dutch Church, one at the top center inside, the other outside the Church. Somwhwre in the 1940's when the vault inside was damaged by a fallen beam, both vaults were opened up and cleaned out. Many people went to see!

Recently the tombstones from the old Dutch Cemetery in High Street Galle, were removed and dumped down outside the Church to clear the cemetery site for a new Post office. Since then have been set up inside the Church-yard to form a wall of memory to the Dutch and their Burgher descendants who lived in Galle.

Inside the Church the heavy wooden pulpit and canopy beautifully carved are typically Dutch.

The old Dutch organ, a cumbersome thing that needed to be blown by detached bellows and worked by "coolies" occupied the present organ loft with its elaborately painted facade. The last Dutch organist, Frederick Pieter Schols, popularly known as Ooms Schols (Uncle Schols) is still remembered by a few whom he taught to sing Portuguese Carols.

Those invaluable old Dutch Records that filled the cupboards in the vestry have been removed to the Archives in Colombo.


A little further down Church Street is the Anglican Church of "All Saints" imposing Gothic in style, established in 1871 on the site of an old Court House (1780's). The gallows it is said stood on the site of the present Church Altar! The weather cock on top has come down to a lower perch. The old bell, like its earlier companion in the Dutch Church, lies in the corridor, a silent reminder of a grandeur that was.

The Wesleyan Church, a humbler abode still standing in Southland Girls School compound, is another silent reminder of the splendid contribution the Wesleyan Mission made to the education of Galle.

The Galle Library by the Dutch Church was also established in 1871. It contains many valuable reference books such as the Conquest of Ceylon by F. de Queyroz. Before the building got its windows, the verandah was curtained with cane -tats. It may be an old Portuguese building, though now it would appear to be an extension of the Post Office building. In fact the Post Office building. In fact the Post Office verandah used to extend right along the wall to the side entry attached to the library.

The library building was used by the Ceylon Rifles Regiment (British) along with the Post Office, which included an old bungalow, formerly the Dutch Writer's House, then British officer's Mess and perhaps the Police Bungalow, for Bunny Austin's father who rented it from Mrs. G.E. Keller, had to pay a rent of Rs-30/ to the Superintendent of Police. Finally it became the Post Master General's Bungalow and Post Office.

The present Commercial Bank building, former Mercantile Bank established in 1862, used to be the old "Mansion House Hotel" run by Henry Boggars, who sold it to the Mercantile Bank in 1865. This too was an old Dutch building with vaults and an imposing Victorian facade, a fitting neighbour to "Clan House" home of the oldest British firm John Black and Co., Shipping Agents to Clan-Lines in 1847. The extensive back-yard includes coaching stables.

John Black, besides being a business magnate, was a member of Galle Municipal Council and acted as the first American Consul in the island.

Of Local interest, R.A. Kale, "Dickie" was Chief Clerk of the Company till 1929. Dickie was the brother of Mrs. Murial Thome mother of Collin Thome the present Supreme Court Judge of Sri Lanka.

"Clan House" is now the property of Clark Sperce and Co. and continues to serve "Clan Lines" They are now affiliated to Aitken Spence and Co., Colombo. The present Manager, A.B. Rodrigo, is a Galle family man.

Next door was Vanderspaar's the old Dutch Shipping co. who also acted as a consulate for many continental nations in addition to their own export business. The Company closed down in 1851. This old Dutch house is now the Government State Plantations Corporation Office (Tea Estate).

The Y.W.C.A at the top of the old Dutch building complex was occupied by Mrs. Black and family. Before that it was a chummery. Mrs. Black moved in, it is said, to protect her daughter from "Peeping-Toms".

While living at the Y.M.C.A Mrs. Black was struck by lightning when seated by the window. She was badly burnt but recovered . She became the first President of the Galle Y.M.C.A to whom she left the building.

Mrs. Black became quite an institution in Galle. She remained a managing partner of the old Firm till 1927.

The Bank of Ceylon yet another Dutch building with vaults, occupies the corner by the round-about as you enter the Fort City Gate. This used to be the home of Ephramus and Co. a popular shop, including a Chemist and the Albion Press under ground level, now the Bank vault. Last year the vault got flooded damage occurred, but the damp notes were removed and sent to Colombo for dry out and safety.

In Middle Street, Volkart Bros., a Swiss Firm opened a branch in Galle in 1887. They are dealers and exporters of Citronella oil, Coconut oil, Copra and Coir.

The building has a typical Victorian appearance, but here too there were two old Dutch houses, one occupied by captain Parker. When re-building a corpse was found buried in the back Verandah of the house. There by hangs a tale of varying versions.

Tourists who would like to see coir rope being packed into bales for export may pay visit to Hayley and company Stores in Leyn Baan Cross Street, literally Rope-Walk Cross Street in Dutch days.

Hayleys is perhaps the most flourishing of the few Victorian era business houses left in Galle. Chas P. Hayley, the founder of the firm, whose name became a legend in the South came to Galle in his father's 800 ton sailing ship the "Percy Douglas" in 1871, and joined Thompson and Company. when this shipping company closed down he took over and founded the firm carrying his own name. Now under Sri Lanka management the firm continues its flourishing and expanding business.

The fort Printers, at Church Street- Pedler Street junction is also an old Dutch building which housed Cargills and Company Island. Later, it was occupied by Mahinda college and more recently the Bank of Ceylon, before they moved to their present quarters. Al-Haj A. H. M Ibrahim, founder and owner of the Fort Printers, established in 1959, built up a very necessary and successful business to take the place of the old Albion Press in the Fort.

Old floors paved with square red tiles are a pointer to old Dutch building in the Fort. In fact it was the Dutch who introduced brick making into Ceylon. It may also be noted that several Dutch houses have carved wooden partitions or screens inside and beautifully carved window and door jambs - also wooden trellises on their "stoeps" that provided not only ornament but ventilation at a time when glass and cement were scarce. But the carving was done by local craftsmen and the designs are traditionally Singhalese. A full length panel of beautifully carved windows stretch across the front upstairs of St. Joseph's House in Light House, Handsome old Dutch chests and furniture may be seen at the N.O.H also in Buddhist Temples and old "Walauwas", (family houses). The "Attapatu Walauwas" outside the Fort is a fine Dutch House dating from 1801. Today it is a tourist guest House.

The period of Dutch in Ceylon is said to synchronize with the "Golden Age" of furniture development in Europe. It is claimed to be a period of artistic activity unequalled before or since in the history of furniture.

The Dutch introduced their Artisans, of whom the most important were the Master of Ships and House Carpenter, the Master of Armory, of Smiths and Masons, of bricks and tiles the narrower the width the older the brick. The very names of tools and processes are Dutch. The term Carpenter 'Baas' is still in use. They made the Galle Carpenters the best cabinet makers in the Island. Mortuwa carpenters developed later, after the British set them to making "Arrack barrels".

Wood carving is also an indigenous art. Those who would like to see a Galle ebony elephant being carved should visit the Amarsena Handicrafts Complex at Heenpendala, off Richmond Hill Road. Without drawing or measurement, with only a chisel and mallet, you can see the elephant take shape before your eyes.

Finally a Dutch sea-water borne sewerage system in the Fort must be considered remarkable. The Colonial Dutch Engineer used the simple expedient of harnessing the tide at flood to flush out sewers and at its ebb to carry the contents away. Little was known of this network of brick lined drains below normal ground level until the Bubonic Plague in 1922 compelled the necessity of exterminating the enormous rat population in the sewers.

Daily, thousands of workers and school children pour in at the two Fort Gates. In the evening when the offices and schools are closed, kindly ghosts move up and down in quiet Galle Fort Town and over the harbour under a moon whispers of the past on Ravana's Hills.

End